| Heritage brew
Rajasthan is
known worldwide for its forts, legendary heroes and
colourful festivals. Now it has another attraction.
Heritage liquor is making a comeback with its centuries
old recipes making a splash, reports TWF correspondent
Rekha Pal.
Royal Kesar Kasturi, Royal Jagmohan, Royal Chandrahaans…..and
Royal Rajasthan. That's definitely a royal combo! But these
are not names of perfumes of yore but heritage liquors that
will brew up the bygone regal, romantic era and an exotic
tang at the same time.
Launched by the Rajasthan government's Ganganagar Sugar Mills
(GSM), it is an attempt to keep Rajasthan's unique traditions
and history alive. In the colourful mosaic that's Rajasthan,
royal families of Marwar, Mewar, Jodhpur, Kanota, Hadoti,
Bikaner and many such rajwadas or royal families had concocted
their special, inimitable liquors, which were prepared keeping
in mind the climatic conditions of the area and the surroundings.
Apart from the royal families, many small reputed families
or thikanadaars were entrusted with the job of brewing their
own special liquor by the rulers. But after Independence,
when the principalities were abolished, the production of
these liquors was banned. The apparatuses in which these were
prepared were also seized. Only the recipes were penned down
painstakingly by the rulers, which were preserved by their
descendants.
Says O.P. Yadav, general manager, GSM: "By launching
these heritage liquors concocted from herbs and spices found
in specific principalities, we are trying on encash on the
heritage and royal quotient so palpable in our state."
Launched a few weeks ago, two brands - Royal Jagmohan and
Royal Kesar Kasturi, are now available in the market.
"We have recipes of five liquors from different principalities
but have launched two of them initially. Whenever we drink
Champagne, France comes to mind, Vodka reminds you of Russia,
Scotch of Scotland. Heritage liquors will definitely remind
you of Rajasthani rajwadas," says Yadav.
Most of these liquors combine special herbs and spices specific
to each principality with dry fruits, milk, honey, aloe vera
and ghee.
The rulers and thikanadaars used earthen, copper and brass
utensils to brew these liquors. In those days, there was a
different department for liquors. Three types of liquors were
prepared- Ikbara, Dobara, and Asaav.
Ikabara was for soldiers. Drinking Dobara in small quantities
was not supposed to make one high and was essentially for
elite class, while Asaav was for the rulers and royalty.
These liquors were brewed in the thikanas, which were part
of the chhattis karkhanas (traditional workshops) taking care
of all the household needs of the respective royal families,
says Yadav.
Maharaja Gaj Singh of Jodhpur was one of the initiators of
this project earlier, provided the recipe of Royal Kesar Kasturi.
Thirty five years after Independence, Gaj Singh, who was heading
the Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation (RTDC) then
had floated the idea of reviving these heritage liquors. Bhairon
Singh Shekhawat who was heading the state government was enthused
about the idea. But before the project could take off, Shekhawat
government had to go.
By then Gaj Singh had given the recipes of Kesar Kasturi to
GSM, which had prepared both Kesar Kasturi and Jagmohan and
Udaipur's Asha in the 90s. All of them had become quite popular.
But since the production was limited, the brands disappeared
from the market. When the BJP government came to power two
years ago, the project was revived.
Kesar Kasturi from Jodhpur royal family is a blend of saffron
and 22 spices. While Royal Jagmohan is a dry-fruit based liquor
with 32 spices and herbs originally brewed by the kings of
Mewar. The families that have contributed the recipes will
receive royalty but Maharaja Gaj Singh agreed to give the
recipe without any royalty.
The other three recipes which are yet to be launched are Royal
Chandrahaas, a blend of 76 spices and roots provided by the
Kanota principality.
Jodhpur's Sodawas thikana parted with recipe of Royal Mawalin
- a combination of 40 spices and herbs, honey and milk.
Saunf with strong aniseed flavouring is the recipe from Bikaner's
Mehensar thikana. This liquor turns milky when mixed with
water.
Mansingh of Kanota principality is happy that these heritage
brews have been revived. He says: "Otherwise these special
recipes would have only remained on paper and nobody ever
would have had an idea of these exotic stuff and their medicinal
and curative properties. Like Royal Chandrahaas is good for
heart, stomach and rheumatism if taken in small quantities."
Since the liquors are meant for international tourists and
buyers, they have been packaged in unique manner. "The
brews have been packaged in heritage designer bottles and
a special consultant designer have been appointed for it,"
says Yadav, adding, "The production now is limited. Since
the nature of the brew is exotic, we are keeping it as a limited
edition."
To identify with the Rajasthani symbols, one of the liquor
bottles has a cap shaped like a Rajasthani pagdi or head dress
and another one has a crown shaped like a katar.
For the domestic market, the bottles are made of glass while
those for export will be packaged in ceramic and packed in
a velvet bag. Bharat Potteries are providing the bottles.
Each pack will also carry a small history of the particular
beverage. The prices range from Rs 350 to Rs 1600 for a 750
ml bottle. The beverages will be available in heritage hotels,
RTDC hotels and heritage trains.
For production of these royal liquors, a special distillery
at Jhotwara in Jaipur, has been renovated complete with new
plant and machinery.
"We are using Extra Neutral Alcohol (ENA) which are very
costly and the brews are highly refined," says Yadav.
He reveals that they are in talk with Mewar royalty to provide
the recipes of Asha and Gulab ."
So now when you travel to Rajasthan this time - roam through
exotic palaces, the exquisite havelis, the magnificent forts
- soak in the royal era but don't forget to take your sip
of the heritage liquors.
|
