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It is a fabric that has reinvented itself in a new avatar and has become the darling of the haute couture masses. Gone are the days when Khadi was a fabric associated with dowdy politicians in a Gandhi cap. Wearing this home-grown material today has become chic, cool and the height of elegant fashion, writes Ritusmita Biswas
It's trendy to be ethnic now and khadi is the ideal fabric for it. Even in western wear this fabric manages to create a look that is contemporary yet thoroughly Indian.
In fact, its easy adaptability to a range of designs makes it amenable to both formal and informal look, as well as Indian and western styles. Options available in khadi are no longer limited to kurtas, topis and sarees. They range from khadi - jackets, skirts, dupattas, cropped tops, capris, trousers, wrap-arounds, spaghetti tops, trousers, you name it. No wonder khadi has stolen the heart of the millions of fashion conscious people across the country today. Says noted Bengali actress June Malia, “Khadi helps you achieve a style quotient of your own. Being fashionable for me is carrying yourself with élan and khadi allows you to do the same.”
Agrees model Dipti Gujral, “I personally like cotton and cotton blends because that goes with our climatic condition. Bengal 's taant sarees have always been my favourite. And as far as khadi is concerned, it is my all-time favourite fabric. It is not boring and mundane at all, with the new trends catching up, khadi is very much a designer wear.”
Simone Tata, proprietor of the West Side and Lakme Company and who is considered to be among the most fashion conscious ladies of the country says: “Khadi is a wonderful fabric. It is among my all time favourites and I feel it is especially suited for tropical Indian climate where cotton clothes are a must.”
Designer Preeti Jhawar points out that khadi is among the best -suited fabrics for the Indian climate. “The best part about the fabric is that it is a versatile fabric and you can work on it so much. Gone are the days when khadis came in monochromatic and dull colours, today the fabric dons myriad colours and is used abundantly in both eastern and western wear.”
In fact, it has become an almost must-have in the wardrobe of fashion divas. At one time coarse and dull, and monochromatic khadi's latest avatar is brightly coloured and in gossamer fine texture. While designers are all in praises for the versatility of the fabric, wearers swear by its practicality and comfort. Not only is khadi the perfect thing to wear for the hot and humid Indian summers but also it serves as an ideal fabric for the chilly winter.
This heritage fabric has a long an illustrious history associated with the Independence movement. Ritu Kumar writes in her book, Costumes and Textiles of Royal India ," A century of colonial rule rang a death knell to traditionally produced Indian fabrics which almost went extinct." However, with Gandhiji's call for swadeshi there began an era of revival of the rich textile heritage that the country once possessed. This rich heritage had been almost wiped out by the colonial rulers by systematically replacing the skills of Indian handicraft workers with cheap imitations made in the mills of Birmingham .
Khadi thus became the symbol of Independence in 1920. The Swadeshi movement called for a mass boycott of all imported fabrics and khadi kurta over khadi dhoti or pyjamas or and Gandhi cap for men and khadi sarees for women became the order of the day for every patriotic Indians. This increased focus on Indian traditional fabrics helped the revival of the vast legacy of textile within two decades of India 's Independence .
The unfortunate part is that even years after independence khadi came to be associated with a typical fusty image associated with it, as something only the old-archaic, politicians and the jholawalas wore. But not any more. Today khadi has acquired a new style quotient and can rightfully be called as a fabric with an attitude.
Of late almost every leading designer like Rohit Bal, Jatin Kochchar, Malini Ramani and others have used it. Gone are the days when you just had the Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan to buy khadi. Up market brands like Fabindia , Khaddar, etc. have given to the traditional handspun fabric a modern, sleek and contemporary look.
Says designer Agnimitra Paul, “The ethnic look is now in and khadi allows you to create that look with ease. If worn with proper accessories and if carried with grace it helps the wearer make a distinct fashion statement.”
Designer Sayantan Sarkar feels that it is the “right” material for “Indo- Western clothes.” “Its ethnic quotient adds that needed touch to western wear,” he says.
The benefits of the fabric cannot be overestimated. For one it is cool, comfortable and an environmentally friendly fabric. Besides khadi is 100 per cent natural. Not only it is woven with natural fibres but also the fact that it is dyed in natural dyes also makes a perfect combination for a green fabric.
So next time you want to beat the sultry months in style go shopping for khadi.
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