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PACHMARHI:
A tranquil abode
By Sujoy Dhar
The
tourist brochure of MP Tourism describes Pachmarhi as a verdant
jewel where nature has found exquisite expressions in myriad
enchanting ways. But if you have been to Santiniketan, the
idyllic abode of peace created by Rabindranath Tagore in West
Bengal, you might have a sense of déjà vu at
Pachmarhi. What overcomes a tourist visiting the place is
its sheer tranquility. Actually, the plateau hemmed by the
mountains resembles a Santiniketan like ambience with its
trees, open fields and red soil. But the similarity ends there.
For as you venture down the rugged mountain
slopes, the hidden falls and the verdant forests of this Satpura
range Mahadeo Hills, it turns into a journey back to the age
of Mahabharata. Among the numerous falls that hide in the
mountain wombs you get to see where Draupadi had bathed. And
then at the same breath the tourist guide tells you that these
are the falls where Kareena Kapoor gyrated to the tunes of
A R Rahman in Ashoka. And in between the fast forwards from
Draupadi to Kareena you can travel back a century to learn
that the falls are also the ones where the British ladies
used to bath. The British developed Pachmarhi as a resort
and their influence is embodied in its churches and colonial
architecture.
Pachmarhi is indeed Madhya Pradesh’s
most verdant jewel. Green shades embrace the mountains, and
everywhere is heard the gentle murmur of flowing water. Bridle
paths lead into tranquil forest glades; groves of wild bamboo
and jamun, dense sal forests and delicate bamboo thickets.
The valley, ravines and maze of gorges, sculpted
in red sandstone by the wind and weather, add their own colouring
to this palette of shades, and cascading waterfalls flash
silver in the sunshine. Deep azure pools are hidden delights
and everywhere, wildlife watchers will be rewarded by fascinating
glimpses of the animal and bird kingdoms.
Complementing the magnificence of nature
are the works of man; Pachmarhi is also an archaeological
treasure-house. In cave shelters in the Mahadeo Hills is an
astonishing richness in rock paintings. Most of these have
been placed in the period 500-800 AD, but the earliest paintings
are an estimated 10,000 years old.
A popular point in Panchmari is the Pandav
Caves. Five ancient dwellings excavated in the sand-stone
rock in a low hill, Pachmarhi derives its name from these
caves which, as the legend goes, once provided sanctuary to
the five Pandav brothers. These caves are now protected monuments
though the railings and artificial beautification around the
caves robs away much of the ancient beauty of the place.
While the numerous falls are the chief attractions
of the place, an uphill return trek from those lovely masterpieces
of nature is often too arduous. Duchess Fall is one such spot.
While it is easy to climb down, as you climb up for the return
journey you realise that no great experience comes free in
life. So be prepared for a real adventure.
Also not to be missed in Panchmari is the
sunrise from Dhoopgarh, the highest point in the Satpura range,
with a magnificent view of the surrounding ranges. A very
popular spot for viewing the sunset, as the day dawns before
your eyes as you stand on the edge of some precariously placed
rock, you are transported to a world which is quite exotic.
The bushes in the rocky mountain slopes are not what we get
to see commonly in India.
If you are lucky enough you can also spot
a bison or a full herd may be.
What to see:
Priyadarshini (Forsyth Point): This vantage
viewing point marks the place from where Pachmarhi was discovered
by Captain Forsyth in 1857.
Jamuna Prapat (Bee Fall): A spectacular fall
in the stream which provides drinking water to Pachmarhi.
Handi Khoh: Pachmarhi’s most impressive
ravine has a 300 feet high precipice and dramatically steep
sides.
Apsara Vihar (Fairy Pool): This ‘fairy
pool’ is an ideal picnic spot.
Rajat Prapat (Big Fall): Those seeking adventure
will find it in this ten-minute walk over rocks and boulders
from Apsara Vihar to the top of Rajat Prapat, the ‘big
fall’.
Irene Pool: This pool was discovered by Irene
Bose, wife of Justice Vivian Bose, and named after her. The
route upstream leads to a cave, through which the stream goes
underground and then over a khud in a series of falls.
Jalawataran (Duchess Falls) : The descent
is steep and the trek strenuous for almost all of the 4 km
to the base of the fall’s first cascade.
Mahadeo: Regarded as holy for countless generations,
Mahadeo Hill has a shrine with an idol of Lord Shiva and an
impressive Shivlinga. On the east side of the hill is an excellent
cave shelter with paintings.
Chhota Mahadeo: Revered as a sacred spot,
this is a narrow point in the valley with rocks overhanging
a stream and a small spring from which water cascades down.
Chauragarh: 4 km from Mahadeo, it is one
of Satpura’s prominent landmarks, and the sacred summit
is crowned with emblems of Mahadeo worship.
Jata Shankar: A sacred cave under a mass
of loose boulders in which the Jambu Dwip stream has its source.
A rocky formation of this place resembles the matted locks
of Lord Shiva.
Dhoopgarh: The highest point in the Satpura
range and very popular spot for viewing the sunset.
Pandav Caves: Ancient dwellings excavated
in the sand-stone rock in a low hill, believed to be a sanctuary
to the five Panday brothers.
How to reach:
Rail: Nearest station is Pipariya (47 km),
on the Mumbai-Howrah mainline via Allahabad. Road link is
from Bhopal while the nearest airport too is Bhopal.
Where to stay: Numerous hotels, private cottages,
government accommodation. Contact MP Tourism office at Chitrakoot
Building for govt bookings. For budget travellers here is
a privileged information. You can try the state govt run New
Hotel which is the cheapest. Though the touts would try to
discourage you, it is actually a good place to stay though
outwardly it lacks a swanky exterior.
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