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Terrorism, factional clashes, conservative clerics, all these oft-repeated images associated with Pakistan for the western tourist make him oversee the other side of the land, a long heritage of art and culture, feels UK-based roving journalist Jonathan Dyson as he discovers the beauty of Sufi music during his travels in the country
“It feels like I've been transported back to the Biblical times,” marvels Simon Cairns, a backpacker from New Zealand . It is a Thursday evening in Lahore and he is at the shrine of Baba Sha Jamal. Around 15 tourists come here each week to experience Sufism and qawwali music, and watch in awe at this most impassioned expression of the Islamic faith.
With the intense, spectacular dancing and drumming that characterise Sufism, along with the brilliant co-ordination of lead and backing singers, tabla and harmonium seen in a qawwali performance, the western tourists experience a kind of music unheard of in most of their respective countries. As the cultural misunderstanding between East and West appears to deepen day by day, the Western travellers who attend a Sufi night in Pakistan head home feeling even more sorrowful about the usual portrayal of Pakistan , and Islam, in their own media.
“The most dominant feeling experienced during the performances,” Cairns explains, “is to be extremely welcomed by the host of the shrine, pilgrims and other visitors. The tolerance exercised towards other religions, minorities and women in most of the shrines is always there.”
“The combination of the dhol beats and the majestic elegance of the dancing dervishes make the visit memorable and worthwhile. The unique atmosphere of the place gives us the idea of the orient we all have in our minds before we arrive, with holy men, spinning dancers, charismatic drummers, and all sections of Pakistani society.”
The man responsible for these weekly tourist trips to the Sufi night is Malik Shams, manager of the Regale Internet Inn, Lahore 's most popular backpacker hostel. Travellers who stay at the haunt are offered a lift to the shrine every Thursday night, and several tourists staying elsewhere also jump on the bus as it heads to the shrine.
Through a life-long love affair with Sufism and qawwali, Malik has garnered countless contacts and an encyclopaedic knowledge of the culture of his home city. He now feels pride in sharing this with new travellers every week.
“I have been running the trips to the Sufi night for the past five years – since I opened the Regale Inn. Before this, such things were not mentioned in the guide books despite being a core part of Pakistan 's culture, so they were in a way hidden from tourists. Travellers come to Pakistan to see our culture and I love showing them what they have come for.”
Malik's weekly trip to the shrine has received a further boost from Lonely Planet , the backpacker's Bible, which provides a rave review and extensive details about Malik and the Sufi night in its most recent Pakistan edition.
Malik also organises three or four Sufi and qawwali performances each week on the rooftop terrace at the Regale Inn. As weary backpackers relax after trekking through the Karokoram Highway , many grab the chance to enjoy some authentic Islamic music in their own hostel.
“Many people who come here don't know about Sufi or qawwali,” Malik says, “so I provide them with the opportunity to experience this for one night at least, and tell them that this is something they should never miss if they are in Lahore . I can't explain the experience to them in words so I tell them a visit is a must. Once the performance starts, they feel lost in the music and from then on, they don't need any further persuading from me to see more and more.”
One of the groups who play at the Regale Inn are Haji Badar Ali Khan Qawwal. A leading qawwali performing group in Pakistan , with regular appearances on national TV and radio, they are always appreciative of travellers who attend their performances.
“There are foreign tourists at almost all our concerts,” explains lead singer Badar Ali Khan. “ We have listeners all around the world, including many students from Japan , Germany and South America . T hey really enjoy our concerts - they usually say they have never listened to such awesome music before.” They have already composed songs in Japanese and in English. They want to perform in foreign countries in the future so that even more people can enjoy their music.
Many backpackers, inspired by their first taste of qawwali and Sufism in Lahore , also attend performances elsewhere in Pakistan . As Simon Cairns enthuses: “ Those who are interested in this kind of Islamic performance should look out for the shrines you can find in every town in Pakistan and wherever you can find qawwali music every Thursday night at sunset.” For this, one has just to ask some local people after arrival where to find a darga or darba and then there is sublime music. “Everyone should be open to such an experience and go to find out about the atmosphere and spirituality of such a place,” Cairns thinks. |
