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Exactly four years
ago on September 11, the twin towers of World Trade Center
came crashing down when some terrorists slammed into the pride
of New York with airplanes. Span writer Sujoy Dhar recalls
his experience of spending a day in WTC that has since been
known as the face of global terrorism
To spend $13 dollars and three hours just to see one site
during a short, budget holiday in New York City was the question
being debated by passengers on a hop-on, hop-off Big Apple
open-roof bus tour. Several said why waste the time just to
get into an elevator. Even the lady at the ticket counter
warned me of the long, boring wait to reach the Top of the
World Observation Deck. On the 107th floor of the World Trade
Center.
But since childhood I have loved collecting pictures of tall
buildings, counting the stories of skyscrapers, not missing
an opportunity to visit the top floors of high-rises from
the Tata Centre in my home city, Calcutta, to the Nariman
Point behemoths of Mumbai. It was a case of love at first
sight for me with New York, and there was no chance I could
leave the city without viewing if from its highest point.
So I did spend the equivalent of Rs. 565 and stand in that
spiraling, apparently never-ending queue of tourists from
across the world, waiting to be herded into the elevator for
a slightly dizzying ride to the 107th floor Observation Deck.
A year later, I was horrified as I watched on television the
twin towers collapsing into a thick plume of mushroom smoke,
camouflaging the tremendous loss of human lives and gouging
a gaping hole in the heart of New York's financial district.
I could imagine how the New Yorkers must have felt if the
feeling of a tourist could be so shocking. The face that flashed
before my eyes immediately was that of the fat black lady
who served me pizza in the Top of the World restaurant.
The next day as I rummaged through the files of my New York
tour I could recover only a few scraps of papers, mementos
of the WTC. I still had the $13 ticket, receipts from my restaurant
bill, and a brochure which boasts: "No other building
on the planet allows you to stand on a roof this high (1377
feet)." On the back, the brochure says: Open Daily: 9:30
a.m.-9:30 p.m. (Sept.-May) 9:30 a.m-11:30 p.m. (June-Aug.).
The WTC would never open to tourists again. It is only stored
in the minds of those survivors who were part of that building,
or tourists like me.
I can recall some of the attractions on the Observation Deck:
a 750-building miniature model of New York City, and an auditorium
offering a free simulated helicopter ride through the streets.
The glass-enclosed observation deck offered New York City's
best views, second only to the outdoor viewing platform on
the 110th floor, the highest in the world but closed the day
I visited.
Waiting for the elevator reminded me of the rural folks who
come to Calcutta and stand in long queues to see the zoo garden
or the Indian Museum. After the long wait, we passed through
a corridor that resembled an aerobridge in an airport; then
a robust security guard shepherded a group, which included
me, into the elevator. We zipped upwards, feeling our legs
become heavier with the elevator's fight against gravity.
Then we changed elevators for the final leg to the 107th floor.
The view of the great city was truly mind-boggling. If skyscrapers
are representatives of a city's economic might then none perhaps
surpasses New York. But from the top of the World Trade Center,
the breath-taking view was not only of the steel and concrete.
You got an unsurpassed vista of all the islands, separated
by the Hudson and East River, that make up New York.
The Statue of Liberty looked like a beautiful, small, decorative
piece that adorns your living room. The great bridges (the
Brooklyn and the Manhattan) that connect the island to the
mainland remain etched in my memory. I took snap after snap
to capture those views for recollections later. Never did
I imagine that the images of the twin towers would fill the
pages of innumerable coffee table books, magazines, newspapers
and Internet sites for posterity.
Being short of cash, I had an economical meal of hot chocolate
and a slice of cheese pizza for $5.50 (Rs. 240). But I distinctly
remember the beaming lady (she resembled none other than Whoopie
Goldberg) who served me the food. We chatted for a while on
subjects that could help me write a travel piece later. Only
I did not know it would be an obit to the World Trade Center.
When the towers came crashing down, the face that floated
before me was hers. Was she there that day, waiting for the
last time to serve pizza and hot chocolate to thousands of
tourists who would never again queue up for the elevator.
Did she perish?
Recently I went to see a hit Bollywood movie called Kal Ho
Na Ho twice because it is shot in New York, a city I fell
in love with. But the twin towers were missing in the frames.
I am yet to come to terms with a New York skyline without
the World Trade Center.
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